Lash clusters are small fans of lashes that you attach under your own lashes, a few at a time, to get a lash extension look without a salon visit. The first try usually takes a while. After two or three sessions most people get a full set done in 15 to 25 minutes. This guide walks through the whole routine, from planning the lengths to taking them off.
Full disclosure: Pilamie sells lash clusters. We sell lashes only, not glue, so this guide tells you what to look for in an adhesive rather than recommending ours.
What you need
- Lash clusters in a few lengths. Trays with mixed lengths (for example 9 to 16 mm) let you build a shape from one box.
- A bond made for lash clusters. Regular strip lash glue is a different product. Cluster bonds are usually applied to your natural lashes, not to the cluster base.
- A sealant, if your bond's instructions call for one. Many cluster systems are a bond and a seal used together.
- Lash applicator or tweezers to pick up clusters and press them in place.
- A lash remover that matches your bond, for taking them off.
- A mirror you can look down into, and good light.
Before you start: patch test
Do a patch test with your bond and sealant at least 24 hours before your first full set, following the brand's directions. Skip lash clusters if your eyes are irritated, red or infected, and stop if anything stings or itches once they are on. Keep all products out of your eyes and away from your waterline.
Step 1: Clean and prep your lashes
Clusters hold best on clean, dry lashes with no mascara and no oil. Wash your eyelids with an oil-free cleanser, dry them fully, and curl your natural lashes if they point straight down. Curling first helps the clusters sit at the same angle as your own lashes.
Step 2: Map your lengths
Lay out the clusters you plan to use before any bond goes on. A simple map for most eyes:
- Inner corner: the shortest lengths, around 9 to 10 mm, or skip the inner corner entirely for a softer look.
- Middle: 11 to 13 mm.
- Outer corner: 13 to 16 mm for a lifted cat eye. For a rounder, doll eye look, put the longest lengths in the middle instead.
Most people use four to six clusters per eye. Fewer, lighter clusters look more natural. You can read more about picking lengths, volume and curl in our guide to choosing lash clusters.
Step 3: Apply the bond to your natural lashes
Brush a thin coat of bond onto a section of your natural lashes, from close to the root to about halfway up. Work on one section at a time so it does not dry before you place the cluster. Some bonds need to go tacky for 20 to 30 seconds first. Follow your brand's timing.
Step 4: Place the clusters under your lashes
Pick up a cluster with the applicator, holding it near the base. Look down into the mirror and slide the cluster up under your natural lashes, about 1 to 2 mm away from the lash line. It should not touch your skin or eyelid.
- Start with the middle of the eye, then fill toward the corners.
- Place clusters right next to each other, with no gap, so you do not see breaks in the line.
- If a cluster is too wide for your inner corner, trim a few lashes off the side with small scissors.
Step 5: Clamp and seal
Once all clusters are in place, gently squeeze your natural lashes and the clusters together with the applicator, from the base outwards. This helps them stay together and blend. If your system uses a sealant, brush it over the top of the lashes now and let it dry fully before you touch your eyes or apply makeup.
How long do lash clusters last?
For a full breakdown, see how long lash clusters last and how to make them last longer.
That depends mostly on the bond, your skin, and how you treat your lashes. Many cluster bonds are sold for wear of several days. Oil-based skincare, rubbing your eyes, sleeping face down and steam all shorten wear time. If you plan to wear them for more than a day, try to sleep on your back and keep oil-based products away from the lash line.
How to remove lash clusters
Do not pull them off. That can take your natural lashes with them. Apply the remover that matches your bond, wait for it to soften the bond, then slide the clusters off gently. Wash your lashes afterwards. If you want to reuse clusters, clean the leftover bond off the base, let them dry, and put them back in the tray.
Common beginner mistakes
- Too much bond. A thin coat holds better and dries faster than a thick one.
- Clusters too close to the skin. Leave a small gap. Touching the eyelid is uncomfortable and can irritate.
- Lengths too long. If the longest cluster is much longer than your own lashes, the line looks heavy. Drop a size.
- Applying on top of lashes. Clusters go under the natural lashes so your own lashes hide the base.
Where to start
If this is your first set, start with a lighter volume such as 30D or 40D. Lighter clusters are easier to place and look closer to a natural lash line. Our 280 piece lash cluster tray comes in seven volumes from 30D to 100D, and the 640 piece set has four volumes from 30D to 60D in one box. Both are lashes only, so pick a bond and remover from a brand you trust.