DIY lash clusters look like lash extensions, cost far less, and you apply them yourself under your natural lashes. The first set usually takes a while and does not come out perfect. That is normal. This guide answers the questions most beginners have before they start: how many clusters you need, what to buy, which lengths to pick, and what goes wrong.
Full disclosure: Pilamie sells lash clusters, without glue. The advice works for clusters from any brand.
How many lash clusters per eye?
Most people use somewhere between 5 and 8 clusters per eye for a full set. Smaller eyes or a natural look can need only 4 or 5. Wider eyes or a dramatic look can take 8 to 10. Clusters vary in width from brand to brand, so check by laying them along your lash line before you add bond: you want them to sit side by side from the inner to the outer corner without big gaps.
That means a tray of 280 clusters covers many applications, especially since clusters can often be cleaned and reused a few times. Our guide on how long lash clusters last and how to reuse them covers that in detail.
What you need for your first set
- Lash clusters in mixed lengths. A tray with several lengths, like our 280 piece D curl tray (9 to 16 mm), lets you build a shape without buying separate boxes.
- A bond made for clusters. Regular strip lash glue is a different product.
- A sealant, if your bond system uses one.
- Lash tweezers or an applicator to pick up and press the clusters.
- A remover that matches your bond.
- An oil-free cleanser to prep your lashes, and a well lit mirror. A lighted makeup mirror helps a lot when you work close to the lash line.
Which length, volume and curl to start with
- Length: start shorter than you think. Lengths around 10 to 12 mm through the middle look natural on most eyes. Save 14 to 16 mm for the outer corner once you are comfortable.
- Volume: lower volume clusters, such as 30D or 40D, look softer and are more forgiving if placement is not perfect. Higher volume looks fuller and more dramatic.
- Curl: D curl gives a lifted, noticeable curl. C curl is softer and closer to a natural lash.
Our guide to choosing lash clusters explains volume, curl and length in more depth, and the natural lash clusters guide shows a simple everyday map.
A simple first map
- Inner corner: one short cluster, around 9 to 10 mm, or skip it.
- Middle: two or three clusters around 11 to 12 mm.
- Outer corner: two clusters around 12 to 13 mm.
Once that looks right, try longer lengths at the outer corner for a cat eye.
Lash clusters for hooded eyes
If your lid folds over your lash line, very long clusters can touch the lid and get pushed down. A few tips: choose shorter lengths, around 10 to 12 mm, and a D curl so the lashes lift away from the lid. Look straight down into a mirror held below your face while you place them, so you can see the lash line. Keep the longest clusters toward the outer third rather than the center.
Beginner mistakes that make clusters fall off
- Applying over mascara or skincare. Oil and residue stop the bond from gripping. Wash and fully dry your lashes first.
- Too much bond. A thick coat stays tacky and slides. Use a thin, even layer.
- Placing clusters on top of your lashes. DIY clusters go under your natural lashes, not on top.
- Starting at the outer corner. Work from the inner corner outward so spacing stays even.
- Getting them wet too soon. Keep them dry for the first several hours, or as long as your bond instructions say.
Can you sleep or shower with lash clusters?
Many people do, once the bond has fully set. Sleeping on your back and avoiding hot steam on the first day helps them last. Rubbing your eyes and oil-based cleansers near the lash line shorten wear the most. The details are in our guide on how long lash clusters last.
Safety notes
Keep bond off your skin and out of your eyes, patch test a new bond first, and do not apply clusters to irritated eyes. Remove clusters with a remover instead of pulling them off, which can pull out natural lashes.
Ready to try? Start with the 280 piece lash cluster tray or the larger 640 piece tray. Buy 2 or more lash and eye beauty items and get 15% off automatically. Lashes are sold without glue.
Next: work out how many lash clusters you need and which set to buy, or compare lash clusters vs strip lashes vs magnetic lashes.